Showing posts with label Contemporary. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Contemporary. Show all posts

Friday, 7 February 2014

Hello Gelo

15 Anderson Street, Yarraville, VIC 3013
Hello Gelo on Urbanspoon
HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR! I haven't been eating out much because there is so much good food at home right now and I am still going through leftovers... I wish it was like this all year round. Anyway, back to to the blog and it gives me great joy to be able to finally write this blog. The topic - gelato! It's been a while since I wrote about Asian-influenced desserts but here it is in the new Horse year. Firstly, I have to declare that I know the owners of Hello Gelo, so I might be biased but my tastebuds are pretty honest (I hope). This place has also been reviewed by considerthesauce, so if you don't trust me, trust Kenny who writes one of the best blogs around town.

I have been to Hello Gelo many many times but have never taken a single photo!! Too busy choosing flavours, chatting and eating it all before it melts! So, I am sorry this blog post has not pics. I promise to get some the next time I am there.

The Place
Set within the trendy Yarraville Village, this is an ice-cream joint. The dominant colour scheme is bright happy orange and it's always clean. The poster board with all the performances around town and all the thank you notes from local schools and children indicates the community mindedness and contribution of this place. It's not one of those imported trendy "too cool for school hipster" gelati places, which makes me love it even more. No dark wood and leather furniture in sight and it reminds me of the good old days when ice-cream shops were bright happy places. There are limited seats upstairs and on the pavement but most people seem quite content to wander the along Anderson Street with their gelati and sorbet in hand.

Things to do Nearby: The Village has many shops to explore and The Sun Theatre.

The Food
The gelato and sorbet are made on premises and real ingredients are used. You only have to check out considerthesauce to see evidence of the yummy ingredients. Having been here many times, I have tried many of the flavours. Highlights for me include the vanilla (which I don't usually have but is so good here), chocolate, peanut butter, chocolate orange (jaffa which is one of my favourites), and lemon sorbet. However, I am not here to talk about those traditional flavours. I am here to discuss the Asian-inspired flavours.

Coconut - Coconut gelato is tricky, it is perhaps the one flavour where you might not want to be overpowered by the coconut so that it tastes like cold coagulated coconut milk. It is a skill to get the balance of flavour, intensity and delicate smoothness. At Hello Gelo, the coconut gelato is quite delicate and light rather than intense.

Coconut with Mango Swirl - This is a very occasional flavour and perhaps one of my favourites as it evokes a classic Thai dessert flavour coupling. The delicate coconut gelato is coupled with flavourful mango swirls. I do wonder what it would be like if there was more solid bits of mango and if that might be too much. As it is, it is still a winner with me.

Pandan - Pandan is what some call Asian vanilla and its green tinged. It is used a lot in Asian deserts all over SEAsia and is delight to have.

Lychee Sorbet - Lychee is a luxurious fruit that many in Asia love for its intense sweetness and slight tanginess. The Lychee Sorbet at Hello Gelo makes me very happy because it's like having frozen lychees. This is probably my favourite Chinese New Year flavour here. Give me more!

Watermelon Sorbet - Ok, at the best of times, I am not a fan of watermelon juice or flavouring. I do like the fruit itself but everything else feels a bit strange to me. The sorbet here is light and refreshing but unsurprisingly, is not one of my personal favourites. I can imagine however, that if you like watermelon - this would be a total delight.

The Service
The service is helpful, friendly and generous. Always time to chat with the kids and always friendly. You can tell the pride in the flavours of made on premises gelati here and it is really something I look forward to each time. I also enjoy showing this place off to friends and family.

Overall
The down-to-earth nature of this locally owned gelati shop is what makes the local small operator food scene in Melbourne something to be very proud of. This is a gem and I hope more people will discover it - peel away pretensions and enjoy fresh real flavours without the hype.

Cultural Moment
Asian frozen delights exist from Pakistan all the way to Japan. Ice creameries exist even before the days of modern refrigeration. Some really popular traditional flavours include pistachio (India and Pakistan), mango and coconut (most of SEAsia), Sweetcorn, Yam, Atap Chee (nypa fruticans)(Malaysian and Singapore), green tea (Japan), red bean (Japan and China), black sesame (China including Hong Kong), pandan and durian (SEAsia). There are also crazy Japanese flavours like crab and jellyfish but I am not going there.

Friday, 12 July 2013

Chocolate Buddha

Federation Square,  2 Swanston St Melbourne, VIC 3000

 Chocolate Buddha on Urbanspoon
http://chocolatebuddha.com.au/
This is prime location and has the potential to be an amazing restaurant. However, there are no queues there unless if there's a big festival at Fed Square. Therefore the 70% score from only about 700 raters, for such a prime location restaurant is not a healthy sign. Yet, I have been there a number of times despite the low score, so, why is the score so low? Having been there previously for a number of years and again just in early February 2014, it's a testament perhaps, to the changing nature of this restaurant from great to mediocre to great food, and varying standards of service over the years.

The Place
Great outdoor seating
Other than its prime location, Chocolate Buddha is also a beautifully appointed restaurant with really tasteful beautiful deco. The large tables work really well too. It is a great setting and even the outside seats from Fed Square and the sun (when its there) which suits some people really well. It is also relatively child friendly though this doesn't mean you don't have to watch them - lots of steps etc around. It is an agile space that suits group dining, casual dining, family dining (outside in particular) and romantic dining. Very few restaurants can achieve this all that well, and Chocolate Buddha's setting is one of those few rare places that strikes the right balance to be able to do that.


Things to do Nearby: ACMI and Fed Square, or a walk along the river, or across the river to the Arts Precinct. The Forum Theatre is nearby too.

The Food
The highlights for me at Chocolate Buddha are the Japanese influenced desserts. The Green Tea and Azuki Ice Creams are great tasting. The Tempura Banana is Banana Fritter supreme and probably one of the nicest way to have it, especially with the Azuki Ice Cream.

In terms of mains, I do like the range of ramens served here - they are not strictly speaking, traditional flavours and have a pretty contemporary twist. However, the soups are not as rich as the best ramens in Melbourne, almost as if they have thrown too many flavours together and nothing really stands out. However, it is still pretty good but not what you would expect if you are used to traditional ramen soups.

The sashimi and rolls (kingfish variety pictured below) are pretty fresh but probably some of the most expensive in Melbourne, again because of its prime location. They also do a contemporary twist with all their rolls, so don't expect your run of the mill classics.
Yummmmmmy lotus root chips with mayo.
Light well marinated pork belly with spring onions

The Service
Between 2010 and 2013, service was what I would call efficiency with attitude. There is a too cool for school feeling about it all here and I always thought I was the only one who felt that way until my friend Paul brought it up too (Thanks Paul!). Maybe, I am just not hip enough or cool enough for them but certainly, I would feel more welcome if they actually came across as more friendly.

However, the last time I went in early 2014, I wasn't any more hip (possibly even more daggy) but the service was really polite, attentive and friendly without losing efficiency. It made me want to go back. What a huge turnaround!

Overall
Overall, given the setting and quite good quality food, if I am in a group and in the area, I would go to Chocolate Buddha. Where once, it would not my first go to place in Fed Square and I might have tried it out once or twice a year to track how it is going, now I am actually looking forward to my next visit! For some, this might be too expensive an experiment, but if you do your research properly and know what you are in for, this might turn out to be a nice experience at the Square.

Cultural Moment
I don't particularly like Asian desserts (other than Malay cakes, and Chinese pastries) but I am always pleasantly surprised by Asian influenced desserts. My favourites are Asian flavoured ice creams, and Asian flavoured gateau and mousse.

However, here are some of my favourite Asian desserts;
A variety of Malay steamed cakes that are really moist and richly flavoured. They tend to be rather sweet too, so you can probably only have small slices each time (though it doesn't stop me). My favourite ones include Kueh Lumut (Moss Cake), Kueh Lapis (Layer Cake) of various flavours (especially the ones with haw flakes), Kueh Sarang (Nest Cake of various varieties, including the Malaysian ones, the Vietnamese Pandan variety), and a special nod to Surabaya's Kueh Ambon (which is also a type of Nest / Honeycomb Cake).

A variety of Peranakan (Nyonya) desserts such as Seri Kaya (Kueh Salat, with glutinuous rice), Bingka Ubi (Tapioca Cake),  Ondeh Ondeh (sweet potato flour cake with Malacca Sugar syrup). The other favourite from Malaysia and Singapore is the traditional Pineapple Tarts and lastly, Ice Kachang and Ice Chendol (the last two comes with copious amounts of red beans)

Japanese Green Tea Sponge Cake is a fantastic addition to the group, and green tea as a flavour has been known to influence many international pâtisserie chefs. Also, azuki (red bean) paste or ice cream is always a love of mine. In terms of other ice cream flavours I like from Asia, there is sweet corn, lychee, soursop, coconut, and also attap chee (nipa palm fruit).

Shanghainese Pancakes, which are basically crispy pastry wrapped around red bean paste has been something I loved from my home cuisine, since I was about five years old. Finally, there's the Sesame Red Bean Ball which you can get at yumcha, which is essentially red bean paste in a glutinuous rice flour deep fried and covered with sesame seeds - the main ingredient being red bean, which I love.

It is definitely a shorter list than the western desserts that I love.

Thursday, 4 July 2013

Mr Nice Guy

Shop J, Little Lonsdale St. (Healeys Lane) Melbourne, VIC 3000
Mr. Nice Guy on Urbanspoon
This has been one of the most enjoyable dining experience I have had recently! Having anticipated this visit for a number of weeks, I was trying not to get my hopes up to high in case I started to expect too much. Well! I had nothing to fear. The atmosphere, service, and food were great and my only regret was I couldn't eat more. This is a licensed restaurant with contemporary Thai cuisine. If you are looking for classical Thai, you are barking up the wrong tree. If you are looking for something innovative dishes with Thai sensibility, this is the one for you. I can't wait to try the other dishes. So, in short, I will be back for more.  
 
The Place
The place has a funky vibe, supported by funky music. It has a great atmosphere and buzz. It is tastefully decorated with quirky lights and great colours, making the place look really bright and cheery without being tacky. It is well set up with just enough space between diners, and has pleasantly big tables.

It would also be a relatively child friendly space with enough room for prams. Parking is of course, a pain in this part of town especially during the day, but I suspect that day diners would already be in the city, and if you are coming in specially for dinner, there should be parks on Lonsdale most evenings.
 
Things to do Nearby: This is not far from Flagstaff Gardens, Southern Cross Shops and also Melbourne Central is only about 10 minutes away.   The Food The contemporary dishes here are really tasty with great balances of Thai flavours. The portion size are also pretty big and so, while it is more expensive than your suburban Thai, it is certainly worth it. The Mushroom Spring Rolls (pictured below) for entree was also a touch of genius because it is so flavoursome and unexpected. The crunchy spring rolls on the outside with moist mushrooms in the middle, served with thick sweet chilli sauce was a great start to the meal. It is served with a fresh bean shoots, cilantro salad with a chilli lime dressing.  
The highlight of my experience was definitely the Mr Nice Guy Famous Chicken (with Spicy Cauliflower, Leek and Jus), which was been poached in coconut juice and oven baked to perfect SEAsian tenderness. This means that the chicken is cooked just enough and might still be a bit red at the bone... come on! It's perfectly fine! Millions of SEAsians eat their chicken like this everyday and survive just fine. The spicy cauliflower had a great kick to it and the leek balances the crunchiness of the cauliflower nicely. Finally, the savoury jus provided just the perfect finishing touch, and I wanted to just drink it up!
Whole chicken with the jus on the side
The Som Tum here is of the variation that uses peanuts and relies on a balance of fresh flavours. The twist here is that they add a protein of your choice to it to make it more of a meal on its own. However, what it also does is to add another whole layer of flavour to the som tum... some yum!
Som Tum with Pork Belly, and Sticky Rice on the side
The Service Unfailingly friendly and attentive service, personable engagement with diners, and dishes that are served in a timely manner. There's really not anything I could complain about because even compared to the usual excellent polite and friendly service you would get at many Thai restaurants, this one still stands a head above. Well done and I hope it continues as the restaurant gets busier.    

Overall
I look forward to going again and really enjoyed my first outing. I would recommend it to all my friends. The only thing they probably need to work on a bit is the ventilation as the kitchen is in the same space as the dining area and like all places with that sort of set up, one might come out smelling like the kitchen if the ventilation is not quite right.    

Cultural Moment
Som Tum is your classic Green Papaya Salad which is one of the more famous Thai dishes around the globe. Not all som tums are created equal. Of course there are a number variations around Thailand but also in Laos and Cambodia. Some people are going to claim that the som tums you find in Melbourne are not authentic. That is strictly speaking, not true at all.   Back in Thailand, there are versions of som tum which are served with lashings of dried prawns and anchovies, or with brine preserved raw crab meat. Let's just say it does get pretty intense and it's not for everyone. These are also served with really hot bird's eye chillies. Even Mum who loves spicy food finds the raw crab meat in brine a bit too full on. Needless to say, I prefer the more tame balance of fresh flavours, typical of the som tums served around Melbourne.

Saturday, 1 June 2013

Boundary Espresso

107 Plenty Road, Preston, VIC 3072

Boundary Espresso on Urbanspoon
http://boundaryespresso.tumblr.com/
So, ocassionally I do a blog of a cafe/restaurant that's not Asian but offers the occasional Asian-inspired dish. Boundary Espresso is one of those but really only has a couple of dishes in this category. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the dishes that much that it deserves an entry here. From its name, it seems that coffee is the big thing but since I am no coffee drinker, I am just going to focus on the food and the tea here is great too.

The Place
This is a tiny place that can seat no more than 22 inside at a squeeze, though there are a few tables outside too. There are some tiny tables and a long table that seats up to 6. It's a nice little corner cafe and the parking is on the streets that surround it.

Things to do Nearby: There's not a lot to do nearby but a short drive will take you to the Preston Shops and Markets.

The Food
So we're here to talk about the "Asian coleslaw" which is in two of their dishes, the Asian Style Salad and Baked Eggs, and Pide with Smoked Chicken and Asian Coleslaw. This is more a Vietnamese style salad (but with wombok rather than cabbage as the base).
The Pide with Smoked Chicken and Asian Coleslaw (with a side of Roquette) 
Baked Eggs with a huge serve of the Asian Salad (with smoked tofu)
The freshness of the salad is undeniable and it's also got an amazing lime based dressing. Just beautiful, and balanced out with crunchy peanuts and shallots. If you love nuts in your salad, this comes with a generous serve of them. Then there's the smoked proteins (chicken in the pide, and five spiced dense tofu in the salad), which may or may not be to your taste but the highlight is the salad.

The Service
This place is well run and efficient, with very welcoming friendliness. It's a pretty relaxed atmosphere and they make every effort to see to your needs, while making do with the small space they have. Just what you need in the morning. In fact, I observed them dealing with slightly difficult customers, all with a smile.

Overall
I shall be back! There are other things (non-Asian) I can't wait to try, including the Chorizo baked eggs, Mushroom with truffle oil, and green eggs with ham. All sound so good.

Cultural Moment
So... was the salad really Asian? Have you seen Margaret Cho's Asian Chicken Salad video? It's hilarious.
In my books, it certainly is, with it's fresh balance of sesame, lime and peanuts. It's really yummy - and just reminiscent of Vietnamese salad dressings. It's great to see Asian flavours taken in a new direction. So, this is a great addition to the area.

So, what is the difference between Westernised Asian dishes and Asian-Inspired dishes?

I think that Westernised Asian dishes are those that take an original Asian dish and twist it to the point that the flavours are either watered down or have lost their core balance. On the other hand, Asian-Inspired dishes are those that take the core Asian balance of flavours and apply them to different dishes and in different combinations. Would you agree?

Saturday, 25 May 2013

Paladarr Thai Issan

7 Rowe St, Alphington, VIC 3078

Paladarr Thai Issan on Urbanspoon
http://www.paladarr.com.au/
Upmarket Dining in the suburbs is rare but when it is done right, is always a treat. Paladarr Thai has all the trappings of a potentially good restaurant other than its relatively obscure location. It has some really lovely offerings which is topped with attentive and friendly service. While it is not perfect in all things, there is a lot to like about Paladarr Thai Issan.

The Place
This is a very nicely decorated restaurant with the right balance of traditional Thai paraphernalia and contemporary sensibilities. This is a really well set up space with heaps of room between groups of diners. There are also private dining rooms here for larger groups. It is a fully carpeted and curtained restaurant, which means that you are very likely to get a nice quiet meal and be able to hear the conversation without having to raise your voice. They also don't feel the need to play loud distracting music, which is nice. Parking is usually ok in the evenings around the restaurant and where the Alphington Train Station is.

Things to do Nearby: This is a first so far - there's NOTHING to do nearby.

The Food
There is a lot to like about the freshly cooked dishes here. The ingredients are really lovely and the only issue for me is the portion size - they tend towards the smaller size. Otherwise, most of the dishes are really quite lovely and meant to be shared. There are not a lot of very spicy chilli offerings on the menu. They have gone for the lightly spiced range of Thai dishes. The one real disappointment for me here is that they don't serve Thai tea! Here are some of the highlights for me;

Creamy Crumbled Pork in Coconut Milk (pictured above) is a lovely starter and really delicate, great with the pieces of roti, and fresh vegetables.

Northern Thai (Lean) Pork Sausages (pictured below) here have a really lovely taste but because of the use of only lean meat, it tends to be a bit dry. However, I am happy to put up with a little bit of driness for health because the flavours are atill there.


They also do a spectacular Deep Fried Whole Fish with a salad. It's simply beautifully balanced in terms of both flavours and textures. The green apple, green mango and cashew salad is completely refreshing but tangy, to balance out wiht the savoury crispy fish. So Yummy!

Their range of curries are never over spicy and may not have enough kick for the diehard Thai chilli fans. However, even for the diehard fans, the Mussaman Curry (pictured left) is a hard to criticise, as the curry which usually has the least chilli. The Mussaman here is really tasty and the beef is close to melting in your mouth. They tend to add the nuts in at the end so that they are still crunchy.

I have to say though that they do serve a range of 'Thai inspired' desserts which do not necessarily appeal to me. I prefer my Thai desserts more traditional but the ones here are completely contemporary, including Rickett's Point icecreams, coconut panacottas and of course the lemon tart pictured here.

The Service
Basic flavoursome Pork Belly and Chinese Broccoli
The service here is what you would expect from a fine dining restaurant. They are very attentive, friendly and most willing to explain how things work and what the dishes are. The food comes out in a timely manner and different courses are very well timed. The hot towels at the very end is such a lovely touch.

Overall
When I feel like a nice relaxed meal where I won't be hurried and can expect great service and am happy to pay a little bit more, but can't be bothered going into town, this would be my go to place. For a bit of a special meal, without worrying about having really spicy food, this is not a bad place to go back to.

One of the few places in Melbourne that serves Betel Leaves
Cultural Moment
There is a range of Thai curries and I am going to be talking about them here. In many Thai places in Melbourne, you could have any of the styles of curries with any protein. I just don't think that's quite right because each of the curries have quite a specific flavour that does go better with a particular protein.

Gang Keow Wan (Green Curry), green from the additional coriander, green chillies, basil and kaffir lime, this is probably the most famous ad popular curry. Usually meant to be a bit sweeter and less hot than the red curry. The best meat for this is chicken pieces (not necessarily breast meat only).

Gang Phet (Red Curry), is supposed to be a whole lot hotter with red chillies (fresh and dried) being the main event of the paste. The paste here is also used for Tod Mun Pla (Thai fishcakes). This strong curry tends to be good with red meats, especially roast duck or sliced beef. Sometimes, fruit is added here for natural sweetness to tamper the hotness of the chillies.

Gang Pa (Jungle Curry) from northern Thailand, with no coconut milk to tame the chillies here. This is a watery curry and it's like chilli soup, perfect with wild boar or pork.

Gang Mussamun (Peanut Curry), is introduced by the Muslims to Thailand, and is a less chilli hot curry, but uses quite a bit of cumin, coriander seeds and usually includes star anise. This curry is mild and works really well in combination with potato, nuts and chunky pieces of beef, or tofu.

Gang Som (Sour Curry) is another curry which generally doesn't use coconut milk, but fish stock and some tamarind would be perfect, as well as pineapple in the soup. You can probably guess that this would be great with talay (seafood) and any number of fish.

Gang Kari (Yellow Curry) uses tumeric and both coconut cream and coconut milk, making it a very rich curry - not always thick like mussamun but the coconut milk does make it rich. It's also usually a bit less spicy than the other curries. Chicken on the bone goes really well with this.

Gang Panang (Penang Curry) is influenced by the northern Malaysian Penang region, and uses coconut milk It also uses cumin and is a lot less sweet than Mussamun curry. Usually suits chicken pieces.

Friday, 24 May 2013

Masak Masak (Contemporary Malaysian Restaurant)

230 Smith St, Collingwood, VIC 3066

Masak Masak on Urbanspoon
http://masakmasak.com.au/
This is a funky place that thrives on simplicity. "Masak Masak" means 'To Cook", and in some cases in Malaysia, the term Masak Masak has a more playful informal connotation.  It is more expensive that your average Malaysian cafe, more trendy, and has a contemporary feel in presentation. Note that they do close between lunch and 6pm (when they re-open again for dinner)
Grilling Station to the left
The Place
Simple deco with a big mural and basic chairs. The place can get noisy because sound insulation isn't great. There is a sense of space here from the way it's set up, though I suspect it will struggle to cope with big groups. The repetitive single reggae track drives me a bit nuts though. Finally, when they are grilling the satays and beef ribs - it gets pretty smokey inside. Parking on Smith Street is always going to be a problem but you could try Stanley Street around the corner.

Things to do Nearby: During the day, the Smith Street shops can be interesting a couple of blocks down, you have some of the outlets. During the night? Not so much.

The Food
There is a range of modernised Malaysian dishes - they call it Malaysian hawker food with a twist. The Hainanese Chicken Rice (pictured left) is a serve and a half. There's probably about a third of a whole chicken in one servce. The white cut chicken is tender, on the bone and ever so slightly pink, much like the way it is served in Malaysia/Singapore. This is one of my favourite dishes here. Check out how much chicken there is!

The Charcoal Grilled Beef Ribs  (pictured below) are pretty tasty too, but the sambal oelek might not be to everyone's liking - it's a bit of an acquired taste if you have not have this style of sambal oelek before. The ribs on their own are pretty nice anyway - though it's not a dish for one person on its own (unlike the Hainanese Chicken Rice which can be shared or be eaten by one person (and a half)).

Beyond those two highlights, there is a range of lesser dishes which are worth trying. If you like noodles, the Western Malaysian style Kon Low Mee (pictured below) is probably one of the dishes that is most similar to its origins. The Buffalo Wings is realy crispy chicken wings with onion sambal - the wings themselves are nice but the onion sambal needs more tweaking in my humble opinion - it lacks something, and feels a bit undecided. Does it want to be spicy, or tangy or sweet or savoury? At the moment, the onion sambal has no dominant taste, leaving it neither here nor there.
Possibly the most traditional dish on the menu other than Satay
Buffalo Wings

The Service
Lo Mai Gai (Sitcky Rice) was a little bit one dimensional for me
The service here is really good and what is even more impressive is that they actually come round and see if you need anything during your meal. I asked for more soup and promptly got given more. They take time and make an effort to see how you are going without being intrusive. I think it provides better service than your average Malaysian joint... though I have to say the service at most Malaysian restaurants have improved remarkably over the year compared to some others.

Overall
I think it is a place I would go to once in a while to try out new dishes or for the Hainanese Chicken Rice. It doesn't have a huge range and for the traditionalists, this place is guaranteed to disappoint. However, for those who want to see what innovation might look like with Malaysian cuisine, this is worth checking out. Don't come here looking for the traditional dishes - they might have the same name - but that's about all.

Cultural Moment
Sambals, Belachans, Cincalok are the various dipping sauces of Malaysia that usually contain some sort of preserved, or fermented seafood or vegetables. While various versions can be found all over South and Southeast Asia, I am just going to focus on the Malaysian ones here.

Belachan is fermented shrimp paste, which can be eaten with a squeeze of lime and fresh chillies, or fried till it's dark and dry, or used in stir fries. It can be fried up with shallots and garlic too and sprinked on dishes to add another layer of spiciness, or even stirred into soups (like laksa). Belachan is usually sold as a block that might look like a thick block or wedge of chocolate from a distance until you get a whiff of it.

Sambal is a chilli paste primarily and so, Sambal Belachan is chilli paste mixed with belachan, shallots, limes and sugar in various combinations. They can be used as an accompaniment to various dishes to given them an added 'kick'. In Sri Lanka (where you have Sambol) and Indonesia, there is a wide range of sambals that include a great variety of ingredients ranging from peanuts to bananas to petai (stinky beans) to anchovies.

Cincalok refers to a condiment that consists of shrimps fermenting in water, lime, shallots, and chillies. This is usually served wet, as dipping condiment, or the Peranakans love having it in omelettes (which I think is the best way to eat it because I can never take it on its own).

Chilli dipping sauces are also common in Malaysian Chinese cuisine, ranging from processed chilli sauces (which may be sweet or savoury or garlicky or super hot), to fresh cut chillies (green, red or padi) in vinegar or soy sauces, or ever preserved green chillies.

Monday, 18 March 2013

Mama Roots (Vegetarian and Vegan)

599, High St, Northcote, VIC 3070

 Mama Roots on Urbanspoon
Asian inspired fusion vegetarian meals are not my first choice. So, perhaps my expecations were low but I was really pleasantly surprised by some of the Asian themed dishes. This is a great find in Northcote and its a relatively new place. Some of the initial harsh comments on Urbanspoon from diners seems no longer relevant as I didn't have any of the problems the initial diners had. The food was well balanced and the one thing that most people agree on, is the warm friendly service, with a smile.

The Place
This is not a huge place but tastefully decorated with a variety of seating arrangements. Lovely little cafe style dining joint with a friendly atmosphere. Parking is great across the road. There were quite a number of diners there when I went with a small group of friends but the sound level was just a small murmur.

Things to do nearby: There's not a lot nearby though about 10 minutes down the road is the High Street, Northcote shops.

The Food
There's a range of dishes here including non-Asian ones. So, I am just going to focus on the Asian-inspired dishes. When I say Asian - I mean South Asian mostly here. It's true that one would not leave this place hungry. The serves are generous and if you order the banquet as we did - there's plenty to go round. The highlights for me include:

Firstly, the starters...
The humble Curry Puff was tasty and light to start with. It was not greasy like some places and could be seen as really simple. However, the balance and lightness was just light for a starter.
The Tofu Balls are sweet and light, not too heavy and a nice way to begin the meal.
I am always partial Corn Fritters and the ones here are moist, light, tasty and well balanced as a starter.

The Tofu Burger here is simply delicious. I am already thinking about when I can go back there to have it again. It's is wonderfully well balanced, moist, and just tasty. Delicious and nutritious... yummy.

I also has the Laksa which looked like a deceptively small serving. This is fusion laksa at its best because it wasn't overpowering and just the right level of coconut milk. It did have spice and some of my friends, Deb and Robbie found that it had a bit of a kick to it. The only problem I had with it is the bits of lemon grass in it. The old style of leaving everything in the soup could be annoying for some.
Lasksa in a Claypot
There were other non-Asian inspired dishes here that I haven't reviewed but suffice to say, I think there's enough of a range to inspire most people but - when you go to a place such as this - you have to be a bit adventurous.

The Service
This place has really friendly service and I felt really welcomed coming here. They are pretty accommodating. They will take time to explain their menu which changes from time to time. I think this is an important thing because many of the dishes, as described on the menu are not familiar ones. They are innovations and with any innovation, it's always good for a diner to ask questions if they are not sure. So, ask, and they will explain what you could expect. One of the friendliest places to dine in Melbourne and my fellow diners agree on the personal touch this place offers.

Overall
What a great find for a local restaurant. I never thought I'd find a vegetarian restaurant that I would rave about (other than the Moroccan Soup Bar) but I do like this one and will likely go back again and again. A real delight.

Cultural Moment
Fusion cuisine can be tricky. Not only is it tricky because it's trying to bring different cuisines together, it is also tricky because you are possibly introducing new tastes to set tastebuds, and not serving anything that's expected. This presents a challenge especially when you are crossing cultural food boundaries - spices in salads, tang to dishes, new combinations of ingredients, unexpected twists in flavourings and textures. I honestly think this is a niche market. Most people know what they like and tend to go for their traditional favourites and their well known dishes. Even those who like contemporary cusine tend to favour particular flavours. Only a small group would put up with real fusion dishes. It's a brave neighbourhood restaurtant that does that, and I applaud Mama Roots. The good news is that they have a range of innovative dishes but also the more expected traditional ones. As I always say when it comes to dining across cultures - know your own tastes, ask the right questions and order accordingly.

Wednesday, 6 March 2013

Tsubu Bar (Japanese Beer Garden)

University Of Melbourne, Gate 6, Swanston St,  Carlton,VIC

Tsubu Bar on Urbanspoon

This is a bar/beer garden within The University of Melbourne. However, it is relatively open and it is a great place to eat if a bit pricey. If it's not raining, eating under the big tree is a real treat on any given day. The cuising is contemporary Japanese and it's a bar, so you get a range of alcohol, and in particular Japanese beers too. My confidence in this place was recently borne out and boosted when I took a group of 6 guests from Tokyo here and they pronounced the food authentic and yummy! 

The Place
Set within The University of Melbourne, it has both indoor and outdoor dining spaces. Indoors, the sound insulation is not great, so it does get very rowdy. Outdoors, it's set in the courtyard under a huge tree with movable tables and chairs. The outdoor area is also really kid-friendly and pram-friendly. A relaxed atmosphere and the only thing you might have to deal with is the falling tree leaves and the smoker/non-smoker angst. Forget about parking - you could try Grattan street but there's nothing else really close by for the public.

The Food
The food is contemporary Japanese and is of high quality. Don't just rely on the menu in the their website - which includes about half the options they actually have. For me, the highlights include:
Crispy Crumbed Pork - Tonkatsu without drowning in pork... if that makes sense. It's different to the more traditional places where they serve you a big slab of pork. The smaller version here is really tasty too.

Soy and Ginger Chicken (on and off again) - At the moment, it's off the menu - but I am putting a place holder here for when it comes back - if you should see it on the menu - order it! It is so delicious and feels really healthy, fresh ingredients and taste, generous serving of stir fried delicate vegetables and rice. So yummy!

Pork Belly in Caramalised Soy (on and off again) - This is on the menu at the moment and oh how joyous that makes me feel. I think it's back by popular demand and has a rich sauce and tender pork belly with a healthy dose of vegies. Yum. Check out the photos Jon took below of the Pork Belly.

Citrus and Chilli Chicken Skewers - small dish (pictured here), very apettising and very tasty without being overly greasy.

The range of cold vegetable sides including edamame, soy beans, string beans, broccoli (pictured here), with a range of flavours. Perfect for sharing.

Chicken Tsukune (top) and Pork Belly
The Service
You order at the bar and they are very patient and happy to explain how it all works. You get your drinks, and they bring out the food. I'd say that 9 times out of 10, they are friendly and courteous. The service is relatively quick given they prepare a lot of the mains only when ordered. None of that microwaving business here.

Overall
It's always a pleasant experience here. That's why I go there even though it is pricey and for some, the serves might be smaller than they expect. It's a highly tasty pub meal in salubrious surroundings (just don't overdo the beer).

Cultural Moment
The Beer Garden phenomenon in Japan is not entirely new... and it's not a far stretch from the traditional Izakaya as explained in the article on Izakayas. However, the beer garden is usually outdoors and since space is at a premium in Japan, particularly in the big cities, you will find them on roof tops. Additionally, many of these roof top beer gardens would be sponsored by one of the major beer companies - so they might have exclusivity.

The main difference between many of the beer gardens in Japan and Tsubu Bar (other than the roof top thing) is the concept of nomi-hodai - all-you-can-drink. Imagine that! This is sometimes coupled with a buffet too!

Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Kokoro Ramen

157, Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, VIC 3000

Kokoro Ramen on Urbanspoon
http://kokororamen.com/
It's a bit unfortunate, reading some of the reviews on Urbanspoon that this place doesn't seem to rate very highly. Given the set up, the effort that has gone into introducing Melbourne to a ramen experience beyond the existing chains, and Chinese run Japanese offerings, and the website that's really interesting, I was still hoping for the best. Nevertheless, the food was a bit disappointing.




The Place
This is a well set up cafe with nice lighting. It has a simple food hall feel to it with enough distance between groups of diners. The chairs through, are not good and uncomfortable (for me). It's located in the city, where there's limited on street parking (Lonsdale Street) though cheap covered parking is easily available.

Things to do nearby: 3 minutes walk to QV and close to Melbourne Central and Bourke Street.

The Food
The food was average to bland. The website's menu is actually different to the menu we were presented with on the night. While it is true that there are different types of ramen, and while the noodles them selves are of quality, it's the flavours in the soups and salads that were disappointing.

The balance is just not right somehow. I ordered a Tonkatsu Shoyu Ramen with Pork Belly... for my friends who know me and those of you who follow my blog - I seldom criticise pork belly. For the first time last night, I regreted ordering the pork belly because it was bland and tasted a bit like a chunk of boiled pork without much flavouring. Other dishes ordered were also relatively bland.

It is not as if they have watered down the soup, it's still thick soup and hearty, but just not tasty. Beyond the soup, the meat, the salad and the vegies were also very average.

The gyoza was light and tiny (which is fine) but the dipping sauce lacked punch.



The Service
The services is courteous and polite, friendly enough though you have to go up to the counter to order the meals, pay for it and then it's brought out to you. It's basic service, nothing to rave about. At least they smile and are polite when taking your orders as well as when serving and saying 'good bye'.

Overall
So, would I go again? It won't be in a hurry. For the price paid, I was really hoping for better and more consistent taste. I can understand now what others on Urbanspoon said about the flavouring. It's not bad but it's certainly not good. I hope it improves and that in a few month's time, I might have update this entry with a more positive outcome.

Cultural Moment
Japanese pride and heritage is a well known concept but in 2007, this took on a whole new direction as the Japanese government turned its attention to three issues that juxtaposed to create an interesting study of Japanese identity. The global popularity of sushi rolls and Japanese restaurants, the humble California roll, and the need to increase Japanese agricultural exports. As recently as 2011, Sakamoto and Allen (2011) discussed the issue in their article, "There's something fishy about that sushi: how Japan interprets the global sushi boom" in Japan Forum.

An audacious plan proposing a Japanese Restaurant Recommnedation Program from the Agricultural Ministry was driven by both economic and cultural motivations. It was quickly abandoned after being ridiculed by the media world wide (and particularly in the USA) with jokes about Sushi Police. Yet, at the same time, how often do diners moan about authenticity of food from particular cultures and wishing there was a way to do this.

Perhaps the solution is a recommender system with tools like Urbanspoon (but then, who decides if the food is authentic?)... it's all a bit difficult. In any case, I have said it elsewhere and I'll say it here again, authenticity doesn't mean it's tasty and delicious. Authenticity also may mean that the cusine stagnates and no innovation comes of it.

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

Blue Chillies (Malaysian)

182, Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, VIC 3065

Blue Chillies on Urbanspoon
http://www.bluechillies.com.au/

This is one of my favourite places to dine. It has offerings of both traditional dishes and contemporary Malaysian with positive innovations. I will try to make the distinction between the two in the blog entry. It means that depending on my mood and the preference of fellow diners, the choices are still there. This is worth a visit, if you just do your research a little bit and know what your preference is before you order.

The Place
This is a tastefully decorated cozy place, whether you are after a romantic dinner or dining with a group of friends. Despite not updating their style for a while, this is not dated at all. The space is relatively comfortable across two levels. It's has a warm and friendly atmosphere with displays of paraphernalia and foodstuff from Malaysia.

Things to do nearby: This is on Brunswick Street and just a few minutes walk from  Gertrude Street. There's plenty to do nearby most times of the day.

The Food.
The food is generally reliably tasty though I would like some of the portions to be bigger. However, the trick is understanding the difference between contemporary and traditional dishes and where your mood is when you are at the restaurant. Let us start with the traditional dishes;
The Noodles dishes are all generally very authentic and your basic hawker offerings back in Malaysia, including; Fried Kway Teow, Hokkien Noodles (KL Style), Indian Mee Goreng.
The Aromatic Curries such as the Chicken Curry and the Beef Rendang are tasty as well.
Blachan Spinach (not kangkong, which is a species of convolvulus) - blachan is a spicy fermented shrimp paste - this is truly a Malaysian dish and done quite well here.
All their desserts are traditional too and worth a try.

They have done the smart thing by putting all their traditional dishes in the noodles and curries and sides. When you then look at the Chef Specials, that's where the contemporary innovations are:
Assam Fish - is a contemporary updated version of the dish back in Malaysia with less assam intensity and more lemongrass flavouring, balanced with a slight sweetness. It works as a contemporary dish.
Diced Chicken in dark caramel sauce and topped with peanuts - is another innovation on a number of positive notes, it's tasty and has layers of texture. Lovely and what contemporary Malaysian should be - my only suggestion for improvement is - throw in a few dried chilli to take it to a whole new level.
Thriced Cooked Duck is brilliant and again, layers of flavour here but not for those who like their dishes either really savoury or really sweet - this one calls for balance.

The Service
The service is generally welcoming and friendly. They struggle ocassionally when it is really busy with keeping up with the diners. This is why I prefer to go earlier ahead of the crowd. This is one of the best service from Malaysian restaurants in Melbourne. When you are there and don't feel the love - you need to just raise your hands, smile and they will mostly remedy the oversight.

Overall
This is a relative pricey place for a Malaysian restaurant but this is not your cafe or food hall Malaysian. It's a place to go to where you can have relaxing chats, experience non-rushed excellent dining in a cozy and friendly atmosphere.

Cultural Moment
People need to enjoy innovation in food... while dreaming about the good old days and traditional dishes. I for one think that there's a place and time for both types of dishes. However, as a migrant, I suspect I am sometimes guilty of living in the past (not that there's anything wrong about dreamlike reminiscing of the food I loved as a kid).

However, the number of times I have been back to those dishes when I go back to those "good old places" and it's just not the same anymore. Is it because the place has changed, or it just wasn't that good in the first place and your memories are just ever so slightly flawed, or could it be, that your tastebuds have evolved and you have grown and the good old days might have been good 20 years ago but your tastes have changed? I suspect it's a combination of all of the above. In particular, after years of being in Melbourne, my tastes have definitely changed - for eg. I cannot bide the level of chilli hotness I was once able to. I prefer less greasy food. I seek out blachan like I never did when I was back in Malaysia and Singapore!

So, while I look for traditional dishes in my Malaysian and Singaporean restaurants, I am always also on the lookout for genuine positive innovations. So, I am not talking about the westernisation of a cuisine or watering down of flavours. I am looking for innovation that still maintain the integrity of the cuisine's flavours but made manifest in new exciting ways and combinations.  Here's to innovation and development of Asian cuisine.

Sunday, 10 February 2013

Palookaville

416, Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, VIC 3065

Palookaville on Urbanspoon
Firstly, this is NOT an Asian restaurant but it does serve a range of international dishes and some of the best dishes happen to be Asian. So it's worth an honorary mention. Also, at 88% on Urbanspoon, I think it's a pretty safe bet if you are looking for a pub meal with Asian influence. Have to thank Pia for introducing this fabulous place to me.

The Place
This is a big space with couches, moveable tables and booths. It's a pub with heaps of dining and chill out spaces. It is also rather dark and you can also play pool here. The bar is clearly well stocked. It is a friendly, chilled out atmosphere than can get noisy once the night crowd files in. Suitable for children during the day.

Being on Brunswick Street, parking is a REAL pain.
Order your meals here

Other things to do nearby: It's on Brunswick Street, Fitzroy - there are heaps to do depending on time of the day/week. Rose Street Artists Market is nearby and opened on Saturdays.

The Food
So, why am I reviewing a non-Asian restaurant? Because, the Asian food here is ACE!
Twice-cooked Pork Belly - those of you who have been following my blog know that I have a soft spot for well cooked pork belly. This is pretty good and it's a basic simple dish, a few sprigs of plain steamed bokchoy on the side, a good serve of steamed rice and the well cooked pork belly. Simple and yummy.
Masterstock Chicken - sticky sweet goodness and moist chicken
Crisp Masterstock Chicken - I day dream about this dish sometimes. It's not easy to cook this well as it could dry out easily. However, they do it well here and its a generous serve. Need to stop writing about this - I am starting to salivate.
Thai Seafood Noodle - This was the last thing I had here and it's good - my only complaint was that I would have loved MORE soup. But it's not meant to be a noodle soup. Still good with fresh seafood.
Salt-pepper Calamri - This could be the new Aussie National Dish since most people like this, and Palookaville does it well (if a bit pricey for the amount served).

This place also serves Palm Sugar Beef Ribs which looked huge, Cambodian vege curry, and Lemongrass Prawn Wontons. And if you are not fancying the Asian fare, there's your range of European dishes too, but I never look past the Asian offerings.

The Service
Friendly Pub Staff with personalities and quite happy to interact with punters. The food comes pretty quickly too and you go up to the pub counter to get your own drinks.

Overall
It's a great place to chill. I would go there more if parking wasn't such an issue.

Cultural Moment
I don't drink - drinking is not a huge part of my family culture. Besides, I am slightly allergic to alcohol, so I have another added reason not to drink. Therefore, in my blogs - other than a cursary nod to whether there's a range of alcoholic offerings, licensed or BYO, I don't usually say much about it.

Having these dishes in a pub is a bit of a novelty and I think represents the Australia of the future where different cuisines are coming together with different aspects of Australian (pub) culture. It's great to see.