Bali Bagus

85 Franklin St, Melbourne, VIC 3000

http://www.facebook.com/balibagus.onfranklin
This is cheaper Balinese food compared to the famous Warung Agus and Wantilan Bali. However, it's not just Balinese food despite the name - there's a fare whack of other Indonesian offerings on the menu. So, to begin with, this is a cafe - not a restaurant, and a bit of a student hangout. It's really good value for money and there's a good variety of dishes, so there's likely to be something for everyone. You basically order your food at the counter, and they bring it out to you. Grab your utensils and water and then wait for the food to come to you. It's also listed as a Halal restaurant though it does serve Bintang Beer.

The Place

This is a cafe with some nods of Balinese art work but it really is still just an eating hall with not a lot of atmosphere unless at lunch time, when there are lots of students around creating the buzz. It is relatively clean but there's nothing to write ome about. What I do like about it is that they don't try to squish the diners together and there's plenty of space here, even for big prams. Parking really depends on the day of the week but it can be a bit of a challenge on Franklin Street with shoppers and visitors to Queen Vic Market.

Things to do Nearby: Queen Vic Market is pretty close by (5 minute walk) and Melbourne Central is 7 minutes in the other direction.

The Food

There's a range of dishes here that's very appealing for those who like Indonesian spices. It's not a place that serves really hot chilli dishes but rely on a balance of spices and sauces. Like many Indonesian places, they do like their food to be a bit on the sweet side. So, even the spiced dishes have a level of sweetness to it.

The highlights for me have included the Iga Konro Bakar (Grilled Beef Ribs with Peanut Sauce, pictured above) is just beautiful (even though it comes with absolutely no veges). If you are into ribs, you need to try this but it's strictly and unapologetically carnivorous. The really basic but aromatic beef soup is also really tasty if you like that style of plain soups. Some people might like the satay sauce to be a bit crunchier but in this case, the smooth sauce works very well.



Fried Bakso as a side - 'surimi' meat balls - not pretty - and not that great

They also do good Stewed Sweet Beef Rendang, not as savoury and spicy like what I am used to but is certainly yummy to have as well with rice. I have also had the Mie Goreng Bali here which is pretty nice and reminds me of the ones served on the beaches of Legian in Bali (only twice the size).

Sambal Goreng Udang (Stirfried Prawns with Chilli Sauce)

Ayam Goreng Bumbu Bali (Fried Chicken with Balinese Sauce - a bit sweet for me)

So, in short, they do serve a range of Javanese and Balinese dishes including various 'Penyet' dishes. Penyet basically refers to 'flattened' and grilled proteins, very popular in parts of Indonesia.

The Service

Friendly counter service, supported by a quick efficient kitchen, that just gets the orders right. They keep the place clean and serve the food but don't really engage with diners. So, don't expect too much conversation. They tend to leave you to it.

Overall

What a great place for a quick value meal with a difference. Many of the dishes are under $10. There's really not a lot to complain about. Don't expect the restaurant quality food of the upmarket Balinese restaurants but expect hawker style Indonesian food and you will be fine. Finally and seriously - people complain about the lack of engaged service, sides, presentation and perfection. I don't know, for $10, I am happy that they are polite and smile at you when you order, I don't expect much more than that - maybe I have low standards.

Cultural Moment

Halal food is not easy to find in Melbourne but is actually more common that you think. The easiest way of course is to check out one of the two websites that list the places that do sell Halal food. The best thing though is also to verify with the outlets directly.

The two sites are;

Halal Melbourne (not an easy to navigate interface)

Halal Square (that covers all cities of Austalia)

Halal Square also includes bakeries, butchers, catering and a whole range of cuisines. I hope that that's a good resource for some of you out there.

Wantilan Bali

571 Burwood Rd, Hawthorn, VIC 3122

http://www.wantilanbali.com.au/

The restaurant has a relatively high score and is one of few authentic Balinese restaurants in Melbourne that appeals to a broad audience. It's always gratifying when a high score from Urbanspoon translates into a pleasant experience. The clientale is a healthy mix of Westerners, Asians and Indonesians. While the food here is authentic, it's not as intense as many of the places in Bali itself and is lighter than the offerings of Bali

The Place

This is a clean and tastefully decorated restaurant, with a contemporary sensibility and some nods to Balinese sculptures and works of art. It actually looks better than the pictures on their website. At night, it's really got a rather nice ambience. Sound insulation is not great especially when it gets crowded. Parking is never great in the area and on street parking can be limited.

Thing to do nearby: The shops of Burwood Road in Hawthorn East are worth exploring. This is close to Swinburne University too.

The Food

There are some really good choices here with a range of predominantly Balinese offerings. Having had many of the following dishes in Bali, I find the flavours here a whole lot more subtle, less spicy and chilli hot, though still tasty in their own way. I got to sample the following dishes.

Mixed Sweet Potato and Potato Chips - what a great side dish - these thin crispy tasty chips are seriously good, with a light dipping sauce. If they sold these in bags... I would be chomping on it now.

Cumi

Cumi Mebase Manis - light tangy calamari salad that's a good side more than a main for me. The calamari is tender, sweet and fresh.

Betutu Siap

Betutu Siap - this is one of the 2 most famous Balinese dishes. Betutu (which is a slow cooked in spices) is eaten in many places and usually involved duck or chicken. Here, this dish, while moist and tender, is less spicy than the offerings of Bali. Nevertheless, it remains tasty and great with steamed rice.

Be Celeng Guling - more commonly known as Babi Guling, this is served here almost like pulled pork, wiht broken up crackling. While tasty, the pork is not as tender as some other places. However, the subtle spices here work and it's less greasy than most places. Wish there was more crackling (who doesn't?).

Mixed Ribs

Pork and Beef Ribs - These are probably more Javanese than Balinese - but so what, they are so good. Melts in your mouth, balance of sweet and savoury, and smokey. The slight disappointment is the chilli paste that comes with it here - it was more of a chilli jam, rather than a hot sambal oelek that would have been better with this dish.

Gado-Gado

Gado-Gado - Again, a main from Java, this is dish hinges on its peanut sauce. They do it well here and while some people like crunchy nuts in theirs, the one here is somewhat smoother but tastier than most places.

Lawar Gadang - This was a hit on the night as a fresh simple salad. Lawar is a major part of Balinese cuisine in its various forms. It's also one of the only ways I would eat snake beans because it is chopped up to beats. This one has a kick here.

Mie Goreng - Of course, nothing beats having mie goreng on the beaches of Bali, served by the little warungs, stir fried fresh. The Mie Goreng here is served with crumbed prawns and satay - perfect for those who are not into food that's too chilli hot.

The Service

Bubuh Injin

The Service here is courteous and friendly. While it is a bit slow, I prefer to call it a casual pace. It is certainly not rushed. The dishes all came at once and for a group that was sharing dishes - this meant everyone had to try and eat everything at once. The concept of dishes coming out at the same time, is good if the diners are not sharing, so everyone can start their meal together. However, if diners are sharing, it's probably better if dishes come out sequentially to give everyone to savour each dish before moving to the next. If they can get this right, that would be great.

Overall

I won't mind coming again. Here's where the comparison with my other favourite Balinese place in Melbourne - Warung Agus begins. The food in Wantilan Bali is less punchy, spicy and hot than Warung Agus. What it has is a subtle balance of flavours especially with the various salads. It is also definitely cheaper than Warung Agus. Whether you prefer Wantilan Bali or Warung Agus, really depends on how punchy you like your food.

Cultural Moment

There are many Balinese highlights for me. There are some places I would still go to, even though I have been before, just because the experience is beautiful, spiritual, rich and meditative. The really special places for me are;

Ulu Watu which is just  beautiful at sunset and dusk. Temples clinging to the side of the cliff by the sea, this is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to.

Tanah Lot the temple by the sea, is beautiful too and you usually have to battle with other tourists for the best views.

Tirta Empul is where Kings and the public bathed in the holy waters by the Hindu Temple. Still used today, if you are gamed enough to join everyone there.

Gunung Kawi, where legend says the carvings were done overnight. It's a beautiful walk through the rice fields, though walking back up the valley after the visit is great for fitness. While this is relatively run down, the temple and carvings continue to be impressive if you are a history fan.

Tirta Empul and Gunung Kawi are near to Ubud, where you might stop off for Ibu Oka's Babi Guling.

Ulu Watu is close to some seafood places by the sea, most of which are great.

Warung Agus Balinese Restaurant

305, Victoria Street, North Melbourne, VIC 3051


http://www.warungagus.com.au/
Scoring 88% on Urbanspoon, this is authentic Balinese food at its best and friendliness to match. It reminds me of what you might get in Ubud, a more cultured, understated, uninterupted meal of an excellent standard. Most importantly, the Babi Guling reminds me of the one served at Ibu Oka (more on that later). This is not a halal restaurant in case you are wondering - Bali might be part of Indonesia but there's a strong non-Muslim element to the culture - more on that later. This is quite an expensive place to eat and the portions are not big, but I think it's Oh! So worth it.

The Place
The ambience here is less Kuta and more Ubud (for those familiar with Bali). There's a certain rustic class and warmth to this eating place that can be quite communal but private at the same time. The deco is really well done and parking is not too bad.

Things to to nearby: Errol Street is around the corner and Queen Vic Market is not far off. Not much else other than that.

The Food
The food is good if expensive. Let's be honest, you can't compare value for money with actual Bali - anyone who does that is just silly - because we're NOT in the same country. I am going to start by focusing on the good stuff that's a must when I visit.

Krupuk Singkong - cassava crackers with their chilli sauces are really a great way to start off the meal though I know that 50% of the time, the table is tempted to order a second serve of this.
Babi Guling  - the traditional roast pork with crackle is as good as any, and definitely reminiscence of the Ibu Oka one in Ubud, with none of the risks of eating in a roadside stall seving hundreds of people. This pricy dish (and which dish is not pricy at Warung Agus?) is really well worth it.
Ayam Betutu - this traditional Balinese dish is not so traditional here because most restaurants in Bali would serve Bebek Betutu - bebek being duck and ayam being chicken. They actually use spatchcock here. I think the next time I go, I am going to ask them why? I suspect it's the ability to source small ducks consistently in Melbourne more than anything else. Nevertheles, the rich taste of spices and lemon grass is well worth a try. You'll have to order this one first because it takes a while to bake.
Sate Lilit Babi - Minced pork satay Balinese style is pretty authentic here. Yummy-, never enough of it.
Es Jus Jeruk Nipis - Fresh Lemon juice blended with ice and sweetened - really refreshing and terribly expensive but I really don't case - if one's happy to pay $6 for alcohol - this is MY alcohol.

A note for punters who are more familiar with general Indonesian cuisine about their Gado Gado and their Cumi Cumi. Their gado gado here is called Toge which is actually bean sprouts - and there's copious amount of it, and therefore, quite different to the general Indonesian style gado gado. I also do find that the Balinese usually do tend to prefer their veges more cooked and softer than in Java where veges are left quite crunchy. Cumi cumi are little babi octopi - and tends to me cooked to the point of crunchiness too. However, the Balinese tend to like theirs with a lot more sauce I think than the Javanese and not as sweet.

The Service
The service is really good here most times and they take time to explain the dishes when ordering and when the food is served. This is quite rare these days at many restaurants. When it's the family members serving the food - it's even better and there's a sense of pride in the restaurant and the food. That usually fills me with warmth and confidence, which is a great experience. I really like the service here.

Overall
This is a nice place to show off to friends and family you care about who like to try Balinese food, and are interested in spicy and tasty food. It's not a place I'd go to every week or month simply because it is quite expensive. However, it's a special place to go to once in a while and really enjoy the whole experience.

Cultural Moment
This may be unfair but I think that Ubud serves more authentic Balinese cuisine than your average Kuta restaurant which has a stronger Javanese influence. I am also entirely biased in my preference for Ubud, the cultural centre with less influence from international brands (aka Maccas, KFC, Billabong, etc). The food is also spicier, less sweet and I am more willing to try the little road side eateries here which are sometimes run out of the back of locals' homes. You can really taste the difference, compared to some of the restaurants that are really Javanese and/or Westernised. This is not to say that the Kuta restaurants do not serve good food - it's just different to cater to a different dominant clientale.

The tourists that like Ubud (like me) are usually not fans of Kuta and if they have to be close to the beach - would tend to stay in Seminyak. On the other hand, there are those who absolutely love Kuta who would find Ubud a bit naff or even, not very exciting. Each of these groups of tourists would tend to stay put in the town of choice and take a day trip into the other. There's also a third group of lesser known Bali tourists who travel up north to the Kintamani area and Gunong Batur where they might have a more immersive experience (though sourvenir pushers are pretty full on), or the northern Lovina Beach where they might live with local family run accommodation.

Simple Balinese Words include:
Warung: Eating Hut
Suk Semah : Thank you

The names :
First born - Wayan (Waah - yaan)
2nd born - Made (Maa - deh)
3rd born - Nyoman (Nyeo - maan)
4th born - Ketut (Keh - toot)